Fiber Facts
Alpaca fiber is different
In the United States, we are not quite processing alpaca fiber on a commercial level yet because there just aren’t enough alpacas in the US to supply the industry. Generally speaking, there would need to be 100,000 pounds of each color countrywide annually to reach this level but currently, we’re averaging about 6-10 pounds per alpaca per year and there are only 250,000 total alpacas registered in the country so, we are still growing the population. Farms do a variety of things with the fiber.
- Alpaca fiber is softer than normal sheep wool.
The primary difference between alpaca fiber and sheep’s wool, even merino, is that alpaca is much softer and less prickly. The reason for this is 2 fold: 1) fiber diameter, 2) lack of lanolin, an oil generated by sheep that can cause sensitivity in people with dermatological disorders. The higher the micron count of the fiber, the more coarse the fiber feels to the skin. There is also alpaca fiber that is 30 micron, like some sheep wool, that can feel course and almost always itchy. Generally though, alpaca fiber has a range of 14-mid-20 micron range is soft to the touch. An added benefit is that it’s also resistant to pilling (think sweaters) and won’t shrink if proper care is given, making it possible to keep your alpaca clothing for years, even decades!
- Alpaca fiber is warmer than normal sheep wool.
The short answer is that alpaca fiber is finer, allowing more hairs to occupy the same space; hence, more trapped air makes it warmer. Alpacas have some medullated fibers, which are hollow and these areas hold the warmth. Studies have shown that if worn in a 0 degree F environment, alpaca gives a 50 degree F comfort range. Sheep’s wool gives a 30 degree F and synthetics provide a 20 degree comfort range in the same environment.
- Alpaca fiber is stronger than normal sheep wool.
Alpaca is stronger than mohair, finer than cashmere, smoother than silk, softer than cotton, warmer than goose down, and better breathing than thermal knits. In addition, its strength reduces stretching and distortion in garments, and grease and oil don’t spot alpaca as easily as they do other fibers.
- Alpaca fiber is hypoallergenic.
Alpaca fiber does not have lanolin that is present in sheep’s wool. Lanolin is a greasy substance secreted by wool producing animals. The greasy nature of lanolin attracts dust to the fiber and is often the cause of allergies. The absence of lanolin, and the fact that it requires no chemical-scouring agents for processing, makes alpaca fiber hypoallergenic.
- Alpaca fiber is water resistant.
Like wool, alpaca fiber is water-resistant, but it can wick away moisture because of its unique ability to mimic cotton in moisture regain. These attributes are what make alpaca feel lighter than wool, but warmer than cotton in cool and damp climates. Added bonus: if you spill on an alpaca garment, you can simply blot away any spills with a lightly damp cloth. And the nature of the fiber reduces static electricity, which attracts dust and soil.
- Alpaca fiber is moisture wicking.
Testing reported to the Alpaca Fiber Symposium in June 2010 showed that alpaca wicks moisture away from the body in knitted and woven (but not felted) fabric. Wool will absorb up to 50% of its body weight in moisture, but after this there is a saturation point and the sweat can sit next to skin, increasing discomfort and likelihood of blisters (socks rubbing against the skin). Because alpaca is hollow, it traps in more heat and mechanically pushes the water away, never having a saturation point on the skin. Essentially, the water evaporates because of the warmth of the alpaca. This wicking characteristic is important in socks for diabetics. The many fans of alpaca socks tell us that the socks are very warm and that their feet don’t feel sweaty while wearing them. Thus, while wearing alpaca socks, one’s feet remain comfortable in cold, damp conditions.
- Alpaca fiber is nonflammable.
Alpaca is a Class I Fiber regarding flame resistance-more flame resistant than plant or synthetic fibers. It is marginally flame retardant which means it will self extinguish. It does not melt onto the skin like synthetics do. These characteristics suggest it has potential for use in blankets, insulation, mattress stuffing and industrial uses for firefighters or in the military.
- Alpaca fiber comes in 2 distinct types: Huacaya and Suri.
Huacaya produces a dense, soft, crimpy fiber that looks teddy bear-like and similar to sheep-wool but actually feels so much softer. 80% of the alpacas in America are Huacaya. Suri, which accounts for the remaining 20% of alpaca fiber, is quite different. Suri fiber is very silky and soft with long pencil-like locks that resemble dreadlocks but without matted fibers. Both kinds of alpaca can be processed in both worsted and woolen methods and both can be woven, knitted, crocheted and felted. Crimpy huacaya makes fabulous, lofty yarn for knitted and crocheted applications. The more rare suri is ideal for sensuous, drapable, incredibly luxurious woven fabrics. Both can be felted, though the nature of the scale structure generally makes felting suri a longer process than felting huacaya.
- Alpaca fiber comes in up to 22 natural shades and will absorb a variety of acid and natural dyes.
Alpaca comes in 22 gorgeous natural colors ranging from white to true black and including delicate beiges, vicuna-like fawns, luscious rich browns and a full range of grays. No other fiber animal produces so many colors. Also, the lighter shades can be dyed using acid, reactive or natural dyes.
- The weight of alpaca fiber does not vary much before and after washing.
Alpaca fiber weight does not change much after washing because is tends to be relatively clean so not a lot of dirt washes away. This is not so in the case of wool of sheep.
What do we DO with alpaca fiber?
In the United States, we are not quite processing alpaca fiber on a commercial level yet because there just aren’t enough alpacas in the US to supply the industry. Generally speaking, there would need to be 100,000 pounds of each color countrywide annually to reach this level but currently, we’re averaging about 6-10 pounds per alpaca per year and there are only 250,000 total alpacas registered in the country so, we are still growing the population. Farms do a variety of things with the fiber.
- Manual (Do-It-Yourself) processing.
Fiber is “skirted”, removing vegetable matter and any second cuts (shorter fibers) and hand spun.
- Sell to local network of spinners and weavers.
- Submit fiber to a national Co-op.
- Submit fiber to a fiber mill for processing into yarn, roving or end product
What we’re breeding for?
Alpaca breeders have differing goals for their farms; however, we all have a shared vested interest in producing highly desirable fiber. The following attributes are what we are looking to deliver in quality fleece (and also what we are judged on in a show ring):
- Density and uniformity of density
The denser the fiber, the more you have of it coming shearing time! A dense fleece will feel tight and open almost like a book, rather than needing to be pulled apart. The fleece needs to have uniform density throughout the blanket of the fleece.
- Fiber length
Also known as ‘staple length’. A fleece with long staple length is desirable in most cases.
- Fineness
The overall handle of the fleece should exhibit fineness. The finer fiber is most appropriate for the more luxurious garments and is generally more valuable.
- Crimp
The wave-like look of the fleece found in high quality huacaya fiber. There are all kinds of crimp: tight crimp, loose crimp, bold crimp, subtle crimp, etc. In most cases, crimp is a good thing, as it gives the fiber an improved elastic quality that is natural in alpaca fiber. Crimpy fiber is strong and has a memory that allows it resume its natural shape after being stretched. It also reflects density since the fiber is more compact than straight fiber.
- Luster
Also known as “brightness” or the “shine” of the fiber. The more lustrous the better regardless of fiber color.
- Coverage
The overall coverage of the animals fleece, including the legs, chest, neck, and face. Although the fiber harvested from these areas is not valued is highly as the blanket, you want it to be as prevalent and high in quality as possible.